Traffic in Grenada has its own etiquette. There is one major road that winds its way around the island, and there is a more or less constant flow of traffic on this road. Traffic in both directions smoothly navigates along single-lane side streets, politely taking turns, making their way around parked vehicles. Mini-vans act as public transportation, stopping wherever a pedestrian needs a ride. Cars pause whenever people want to cross the busy road, which they do with alacrity. Rotaries may be concrete circles with flower bushes, and they may be a pile of tires stacked up and painted white.
We learn to navigate all of this as we make our way up the west coast of the island. The road becomes even prettier as we move further away from the town, with hills on one side, and the ocean on the other. Dense green trees are everywhere. We take a short and educational tour of a nutmeg plant, where the operations are wholly manual. Nutmeg is Grenada’s primary export. Then we wind our way back down, and drive into the interior highlands. Our objective is the Grand Etang Lake, a crater lake at a height of 1900 m. The road is blocked by construction, but a dozen set of directions, and two dozen turns down narrow winding side roads later, we’re there. We brave sporadic showers for a short hike the lookout, where we gaze at the gorgeous mist-clad vistas — forests rolling down the hills all the way to the distant ocean.